Unless you are actually installing a toilet and creating a new hole, the need to measure the distance from the wall to the floor bolts is useless, the majority of toilets are stand and will fit where the last one was. Now Another thing, if your buying a new toilet with all the parts, you should not have to worry about some gasket not working correctly. However, if you’re getting a “New” toilet from a friend who is taking out a toilet and you can use it, then go out and buy all new in side pieces. The cost is nothing, a wax ring and the water valve at Home Depot is less than $16.00.

The toilet we are replacing was here when we bought the house, however it had a larger tank (waste of water) and there was an alga growing in the tank, so we wanted just to get rid of it. A friend, just happened to be removing a brand-new water efficient tank from a local resident who for some reason just wanted to switch the whole toilet and did not care where it went, so we took it off their hands.

Steps:

Turn off the water supply. Flush the toilet to empty the basin and bowl. You can use a small cup at first, and then switch over to a heavy-duty sponge. Dump the excess water into a bucket and dispose of it somewhere safe. If the tub is right there, use that.

Where protective rubber gloves to guard against any harmful bacteria.
Unscrew the water supply line first and then unscrew the floor bolts that fasten the bowl to the floor. There is no need to take off the tank from the toilet if you’re just replacing the whole thing, its slightly heavy but one person can remove it safely. Using your legs instead of your back. Place it somewhere convenient where it can’t transmit unwanted bacteria. I just carried ours into the basement to be tossed on garbage collection day.

Break the sealant on pedestal of the toilet by rocking the it back and forth. You don’t need to go overboard; a little bit of rocking goes a long way. After the seal has been broken, lift straight up and move the bowl away from the bathroom floor screws, which we can reuse if not damaged.

Scrape away remaining wax around the drain opening. You’re going to be creating a new seal, so you want as much of the old sealant to be removed for proper sealing.

You can replace the old flange around the drain opening with a new one, but again there is no need if it is not broken. If so, unbolt the old flange and place the new flange over the hole. Next, drive in any mounting bolts through the flange and into the floor. We left ours, and just cleaned off the old wax, scrubbed off the floor of any remains and then installed the new wax ring.
Fit a new wax ring around the bottom of the toilet bowl drainage hole on the floor. Wax rings come either plain or with a funneled inside edge. Then lift and place the toilet bowl over the anchor bolts protruding from the floor. This step is tricky but if you line each hole with the screw and settle and the toilet on top you will have a good quality seal. The very slightly sit of the bowl, rocking side to side very slowly to make the toilet sink flush on to the floor and therefor the wax ring.

Tighten the wingnuts onto the crew screws, have a washer between the porcelain and the wing nut, and do not over tighten as that can crack the porcelain toilet.

Tighten the floor bolts gradually with an adjustable wrench until secure. Tighten one side a bit, and then move on to the other side. In other words, tighten simultaneously as much as possible.

Over-tightening can result in a cracked bowl. Get the right balance between sealed and too-tight.

Install the decorative caps over the floor bolts.
Reconnect the water line and turn on the water supply.
Caulk around the base of the toilet to ensure a good seal.

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